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Old 12-07-2010, 12:06 PM  
Junior Member

Kittanning, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 8 | Kudos: +10
Kegerator?

I'd like to start brewing beer but I have 2 problems. I don't want to wait 2 weeks extra to add carbonation (by dropping more yeast in my beer after it's been fermented) and my second problem is I don't have money for a kegerator of any kind. So, my question is, any of you who came from the home brew forum and live in allegheny/armstrong/indiana county area have an old kegerator (pref still working) that you'd give away/sell cheap?

Or, a better question/answer would be what are some other methods of adding carbonation?

Here's hoping! haha

EDIT: I'm fairly new to brewing so if my question seems a little like it lacks knowledge, that's because it is. If I said something incorrect, please feel free to correct me.
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Old 12-07-2010, 03:01 PM  
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Springville, PA
Join Date: Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spider87 View Post
I don't want to wait 2 weeks extra to add carbonation (by dropping more yeast in my beer after it's been fermented)
First, generally you aren't adding yeast after fermentation. In a beer, the alcohol isn't usually high enough to kill off all the critters. You often add a bit of sugar/malt at bottling time to give the little buggers a shot in the arm. With kegging you can speed the process off by force carbonating, but still its generally better (IMHO) to let this process run its natural course. I think you get better results.
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Old 12-07-2010, 04:10 PM  
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Kittanning, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Nov 2010
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That's a good tip, thanks craig. I have been trying to find time to give this all a shot but haven't gotten there yet. I think I'll go ahead and try it sugar/malt bottling way for my first attempt and see how I like it.

Thanks!
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Old 12-08-2010, 07:03 AM  
bja
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Butler, Pa
Join Date: Sep 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigowens View Post
With kegging you can speed the process off by force carbonating, but still its generally better (IMHO) to let this process run its natural course. I think you get better results.
I do it both ways and there's absolutely no difference in the finished beer. If I need a keg carbed quickly I'll force carb. If I have time to let it sit, I'll prime the keg with sugar.

Occasionally you can find a used kegerator on craigs list or you could get a refrigerator and build your own, but if you really want to start brewing, that extra 2 weeks is well worth the wait.
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:01 AM  
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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
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Originally Posted by bja View Post
I do it both ways and there's absolutely no difference in the finished beer. If I need a keg carbed quickly I'll force carb. If I have time to let it sit, I'll prime the keg with sugar.

Occasionally you can find a used kegerator on craigs list or you could get a refrigerator and build your own, but if you really want to start brewing, that extra 2 weeks is well worth the wait.
I agree that there is little to no difference in the finished product between forced carbonated beer and either, krausening or sugar priming, and then cask/ bottle conditioning the beer.

I used to think that the bubbles of the bottle/ cask conditioned beer were smaller thus leading to a creamier body and head - but I am since neutral on this.
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:10 AM  
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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
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Originally Posted by BrotherMalcolm View Post
I agree that there is little to no difference in the finished product between forced carbonated beer and either, krausening or sugar priming, and then cask/ bottle conditioning the beer.

I used to think that the bubbles of the bottle/ cask conditioned beer were smaller thus leading to a creamier body and head - but I am since neutral on this.
OH BTW - there are some minor differences but I think they are due mostly to
1) the inaccuracy of bottle conditioning vs the calculation of CO2 volumes and hitting your mark

2) the bottle conditioned beers have more yeast present and may impart some flavors (some desirable some not - all depending on style and preference).

3) Also, if you krausen vs using sugar the mouth feel and malt profile change

and lastly

4) Sometimes the yeast, if not properly pour off, can cloud your beer - I for one love it and will swirl my bottle prior to the pour.
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:31 AM  
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Boston, MA
Join Date: Dec 2010
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I think you should dive in! If you are waiting till you find the kegorater -it may be longer than 2 weeks anyway- Also part of the fun (for me) is in checking the beer as it ages...
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:36 AM  
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Boston, MA
Join Date: Dec 2010
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Also-if you prime in the bottle
Check your recipe (maybe 1 oz of primer per gal- not sure) before you add the bottling sugar. My first batch showered glass all over my kitchen because we did it by eye (then some for a kick).
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:52 PM  
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Pittsburgh, PA
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Just my 2 cents:
I bottle condition my beers, meads, & wines. Force carb my sodas. I think they all taste better that way.
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:26 PM  
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Kittanning, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 8 | Kudos: +10
Wow, full of good info. I've heard of the bottles shattering but my understanding was that that was due to the bottles being too thin? Is it possible that was the case or is it possible to over prime as well? I'm currently trying to obtain some citra hops because the kit I bought from Ben's homebrew came with a recipe to be used with citra hops but the hops I have have been sitting for too long and I didn't have them sealed properly. I'm also trying to get some wine supplies together because I have a couple packets of wine yeast ready but need to get the other supplies haha.
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