Problem stripping paint off of brick is brick is porous and is a ton of work and mess ans even then you probably won't get it all besides slate and a rustic Mantle in my books is EXCELLENT IDEA and would look FANTASTIC
Problem stripping paint off of brick is brick is porous and is a ton of work and mess ans even then you probably won't get it all besides slate and a rustic Mantle in my books is EXCELLENT IDEA and would look FANTASTIC
Thanks!! That's definitely the direction I'm headed as soon as weather gets cold and I'm not so enticed to be outside in my free time
I'll say it a second time, stripping paint off of brick can only be done with a media blaster, some people say it can be done with acid and I call BS, not only would acid harm the brick, it would turn the paint into a goop, and work it's way into the mortar joints, and pits in the brick.
Now I'm sure there will be some people say that "acid works just fine" and "media blaster with damage the brick!" but I've worked with enough Masons, and GC's, and have done enough work like this to know better!
I'm not saying this to be rude at all, it's just talking about stripping the brick is pointless.
I think she is going in the best direction with a stone tile.
I'll say it a second time, stripping paint off of brick can only be done with a media blaster, some people say it can be done with acid and I call BS, not only would acid harm the brick, it would turn the paint into a goop, and work it's way into the mortar joints, and pits in the brick.
Now I'm sure there will be some people say that "acid works just fine" and "media blaster with damage the brick!" but I've worked with enough Masons, and GC's, and have done enough work like this to know better!
I'm not saying this to be rude at all, it's just talking about stripping the brick is pointless.
I think she is going in the best direction with a stone tile.
But this is just my opinion.
Can't wait to see the fireplace once you're done!
You are certainly not being rude ... I really appreciate your advice and took it into consideration because several of my friends wanted me to strip the paint to the brick too... fortunately I grew up working with my dad renovating old homes all my life so that was a task I am quite sure I was not about to embark on. I can do most of the work, but I've never been good at the ideas so I need others for that.
I can't wait to get started on this project and post pictures for you all. Won't happen til cold weather forces me inside though
I have been contemplating my painted brick fireplace also. I thought that I would end up doing some sort of tile/stone overlay, but I have been lately intrigued with the idea of doing faux venetian plaster. It would be a bit messier in the sanding/polishing stage, but the results would be impressive....
I have been contemplating my painted brick fireplace also. I thought that I would end up doing some sort of tile/stone overlay, but I have been lately intrigued with the idea of doing faux venetian plaster. It would be a bit messier in the sanding/polishing stage, but the results would be impressive....
Hmmmm... interesting idea. I don't think I'd want to embark on that task though, but if you have a house that would lend itself to venetian plaster, I bet it would look good. Sounds like too much mess and work for me though I hope you do it and if you do I hope you post pictures! We can compare our new fireplaces in the spring
I have built a lot of custom mantles and fireplace surrounds. This one is a good one for a complete cover up. Start with the base. Put your floor down and use the same reclaimed wood around the base of the fireplace. On the hearth put a complimenting slate. Don't use square tiles use broken uneven natural slate. Also use the same slate as a surround for the fireplace but only about 4 inches out from the opening.
Next is the wall of brick. Paint it black. Then put a different reclaimed wood or the same wood but left in found condition like a rough barn lumber. Seal it. the reason for painting the brick black is to keep the white from showing through the cracks in the lumber when it is put up there. The wood can be hung by concrete screw through the top and bottom of the boards and those places can then be covered by a moulding made of the same lumber or a contrasting wood to change up the look a little bit. Also if you don't want the cracks between the wood to be visible and possibly show the brick (even if painted black) behind the wood. You have 2 options. 1 is to plane the edges of the lumber smooth so there is no joint or you can cover the joints with a thin narrow piece of wood. If the lumber you use is not long enough to reach from floor to ceiling and you want it to look like it does, hide the joint behind the mantle piece.
Now for the mantle. The current mantle top is fine but it is to thin and doesn't break the height well there is a large space below and a small space above. Not to aesthetically appealing. Find a large piece of wood for the mantle notch it out to cover the bricks that are sticking out and use that same brick as a support for it. So think ahead when you notch the back out so it will sit level and flush to the reclaimed wood you put on the wall. You want the majority of the mantle piece down with a small part above the brick to keep the focal point down. As it is now the top is fine but being so thin it leaves a big space below with a thick mantle at the same height it will fill the center space better. after the mantle is in place you can run screws at a down angle through the back edge of the mantle piece into the boards running up and down. The brick that sticks out will be providing the support up and down for the mantle the screws will keep it solid to the wall. Use a deck type screw with a head that can be pulled just under the surface of the mantle piece so they are not visible and no one who doesn't know will look at it and wonder how it is supported. Remember to find a piece of wood that is big enough to provide the distance you want it to stick out from the wall and also thick enough to hang down far enough from the top of the brick that sticks out to fill the space more uniformly up and down.
This really isn't a huge project other than notching the mantle piece. The rest is a little paint, tile and wood. just adjust your wood covering to compliment the floor and rest of the room and as mentioned just bring the floor lumber right up the front of the hearth to the base of the slate.
I have built a lot of custom mantles and fireplace surrounds. This one is a good one for a complete cover up. Start with the base. Put your floor down and use the same reclaimed wood around the base of the fireplace. On the hearth put a complimenting slate. Don't use square tiles use broken uneven natural slate. Also use the same slate as a surround for the fireplace but only about 4 inches out from the opening.
Next is the wall of brick. Paint it black. Then put a different reclaimed wood or the same wood but left in found condition like a rough barn lumber. Seal it. the reason for painting the brick black is to keep the white from showing through the cracks in the lumber when it is put up there. The wood can be hung by concrete screw through the top and bottom of the boards and those places can then be covered by a moulding made of the same lumber or a contrasting wood to change up the look a little bit. Also if you don't want the cracks between the wood to be visible and possibly show the brick (even if painted black) behind the wood. You have 2 options. 1 is to plane the edges of the lumber smooth so there is no joint or you can cover the joints with a thin narrow piece of wood. If the lumber you use is not long enough to reach from floor to ceiling and you want it to look like it does, hide the joint behind the mantle piece.
Now for the mantle. The current mantle top is fine but it is to thin and doesn't break the height well there is a large space below and a small space above. Not to aesthetically appealing. Find a large piece of wood for the mantle notch it out to cover the bricks that are sticking out and use that same brick as a support for it. So think ahead when you notch the back out so it will sit level and flush to the reclaimed wood you put on the wall. You want the majority of the mantle piece down with a small part above the brick to keep the focal point down. As it is now the top is fine but being so thin it leaves a big space below with a thick mantle at the same height it will fill the center space better. after the mantle is in place you can run screws at a down angle through the back edge of the mantle piece into the boards running up and down. The brick that sticks out will be providing the support up and down for the mantle the screws will keep it solid to the wall. Use a deck type screw with a head that can be pulled just under the surface of the mantle piece so they are not visible and no one who doesn't know will look at it and wonder how it is supported. Remember to find a piece of wood that is big enough to provide the distance you want it to stick out from the wall and also thick enough to hang down far enough from the top of the brick that sticks out to fill the space more uniformly up and down.
This really isn't a huge project other than notching the mantle piece. The rest is a little paint, tile and wood. just adjust your wood covering to compliment the floor and rest of the room and as mentioned just bring the floor lumber right up the front of the hearth to the base of the slate.
This is a great idea and very informative! I am printing this one out for my reference! +1 to you!!!
Wow, I never thought this entire thread would be so helpful to me... I am actually looking forward to some cold weather to send me indoors to get started. I better make some decisions quick so I can get to work and of course I'll let everyone know my final decision and post pictures of the progress.
Question 1, if I do reclaimed wood on the floor (and my living room is pretty small) do you think reclaimed wood wall on the fireplace would be too much for the small room? I am still leaning towards the slate or even stone to keep the contrast and make the fireplace into it's own focal point in the room. I think using the slate on the hearth like you describe will do a good job of breaking them up, but I am wondering if this is a better design for a bigger room than mine.
Question 2. I am also having to keep in mind that my living room is also pretty dark because there is a large porch outside that extends over the two windows. Fortunately I have a big opening into the kitchen that is super bright from sliding doors and a window, but it only helps a bit. So I need to keep this in mind when I make my final decision. At the same time, I can do something darker for the fireplace and paint the walls lighter and keep the ceiling white, and all of that will help.
#1 the reclaimed wood on the floor will be a much lighter color since it will have to be sanded and have a finish put on it to make it a surface you can comfortably walk on. The wood covering the brick will be darker, aged, and rough. looking like a completely different type of wood and along with the slate hearth and fireplace surround will give the fireplace a rustic look.
#2 Go with a light wall color and it will even make the fireplace stand out even more. Go with a very light version of the fireplace wood. If it is an old aged dark gray go with a very very light gray if it is old and brown then go with a light brown or even a wheat color.
Looking at that picture I see a dry stacked stone vaneer with a very dark(black) slate hearth and an old barn beam for a mantle. You could always mimic a barn beam with a distressed 8x8 beam. I used a 4x4 for a smaller project - a hammer, screw driver, drag down the road behind my truck and some dark stain made short work of it!
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