Finally put the 100th Round Through
 

Scope -$450
Bipod - $100
20 220 Grain Rounds - $30

The joy felt from hitting a target at 500 yards - Priceless

https://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/...m/DSCN1001.jpg

https://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/...m/DSCN1000.jpg

220 grain bullets..... So what Caliber is it? 300 Win. Mag.?

.30-06 or 7.62x63mm for the sticklers out there.

Cool:D. Love the 30-06 round. I have two rifles chambered in 30-06.

I had a 300 Win. Mag. built last year for 1000 + yard target. Works out pretty good, however I'm having a .308 Win./260Rem. switch barrel rifle built now.

Very nice. Heavy barrel?

The 300 Win Mag target rifle has a 28" long Krieger #9 MTU barrel with a Elite Iron muzzel brake on it. Barrel weighs 5.5 lbs. Also using a McMillan A-5 stock. I'm running a 1 in 11 twist basically for the Berger 210 grain target bullet. That gives me a Sg factor of 1.56 with the Berger. The 190 SMK's run good as well but not quite as tight of grouping as the 210 Bergers. Going to try 1 in 10 twist on next barrel.

Barrel life for 300 Win. Mag. is short. Lasts about +/- 1500 rounds and have second barrel on the way. Thats why I'm having built the switch barrel rifle with two barrels chambered in .308 Win. and .260 Rem. Barrel life should be about 7500 or so rounds with .308 Win. and about 3000 rounds for the 260 Rem. The .308 caliber will be for practice. The 260 Rem. has very similar flight ballistic charistics of 300 Win. Mag. out to 1000 yards.

Jeez what is you bill up to by now? lmao

According to the "old woman" I live with, too much. But I kind of have a sickness / passion for this kind of stuff.

Sickness being defined by me as "obviously I must enjoy the constant nagging and arse chewing from the old woman for spending what I do on toys like these" and passion "cause' I like said toys". :D

Actually IMO it's all relative to how much $$$ one can afford to fritter away and still comfortbly meet their $$$ obligations.

Very true. It's good that you can afford your passion and still live a nice life.
I think my dream job would a weapons tester or even just a shooting range guy.

Oh don't worry I do pay the price for what I can afford and I just don't mean the old woman nagging all the time. Of course I think she would nag even if she was hung with a gold rope.:D

Quite some time back in my life I got the bright idea to get my contracting liscense and do business. In California. What was i thinking?!?!???

On average I put in 70+ hours of work a week, weather it be in the office, like now, or out in the field with my boys or a combination of both.

Usually always a high stress situation doing this business thing and I have the ulcers, high blood pressure, and associated ailments to prove it.

So when I work..... I works hard. When play.... I plays hard.


Regardless looks like a very nice rifle you have there and gald to see your playing at that 500 yard distance. Hitting that target at that distance is a rush isn't it?

Oh yeah. I though it was cool when I hit a dime with a .22 long rifle years back, completely
shadowed by a long shot though.

OMG! I shouldn't really be surprised but that's far lower than I'd have guessed.
A few years back when I had money coming in I saw a rifle I thought might be fun at 1000 yards.
two years later it's scoped and getting dusty. I'm still looking for a legal place to sight it in.

MRB, could you give me an honest idea of anything I might do to improve it?

Browning FN High-Power Safari Grade Cal. .338 Win. Mag.
Leupold 60335 4.5-14x50 VX-L Varmint Hunter's reticle Matte Scope

Two simple but helpful mods are a bolt handle knob and a muzzle brake.
May if you wanted to get more hard core you could do an external mag mod,
A stock with a thumb hole for control, maybe a new recoil pad, and adjustable
cheek rest, and tighter rifled barrel. You can do alot.


And I think the easiest and safest way to sight in a scope is with a bore laser.

Oh and get a picatinny rail for you scope. That way it is easy to change from a long range
scope to a hunting/tactical scope..

Checked the bolt and the handle is part of the bolt. I'll check into an add-on mod.

Like you I one day aimed at & hit a shiny new penny wedged in the bark of an oak tree. It was on a bet and one of the 2 betting against me could not even see the penny I put a hole through from where I fired. Grew up with a .22 in my hands but since then it's been all handguns for me.

I want to do the thumb hole myself. Cheek rest & rifling can wait till I have a feel for the weapon. A friend in KY mentioned a new recoil system that was more than a fancy pad. I don't recall the name.
Your rail idea is a fine one because I recently began thinking about having the rifle earn it's keep. I'm butt deep in elk where I camp about an hour from home.

??? Is that like porting the barrel?

Yeah there is a knob you can add on to make the area a little larger and easier
to work the bolt.

Here is you bolt hoe it is know, and the mod knob sitting next to it.
https://www.shootingillustrated.com/w...51-300x199.jpg

After installed
https://www.accurateaction.com/images...obs/bolt_1.jpg

On the rifle
https://www.kampfeldcustom.com/hexed_..._bolt_knob.jpg


You can see how it make the bolt easier to work, especially for guys with monster hands like me.

Heres a couple of pics. of my target rifle.

Attachment 26999

Attachment 27000

The main thing that you need to do when it comes to the long range game is make everything you do each time you shoot as exactly repeatable as possible form shot to shot. As far as the rifle goes, particularly of the 338 Win. Mag. caliber, is to first get the felt recoil reduced as much as possible.

A good timed thread on muzzel brake for this caliber is a must for long range repeatable accuracy. A proper timed muzzel brake should reduce felt recoil up to 50% or so. I use an Elite Iron brake. With the #9 contour Krieger Barrel on my target rifle I'm able to use a 5/8" X 24 TPI threaded brake. Most factory barrels will take a 9/16" threaded brake. I have a 9/16 timed brake on sporterized 03A3 which works quite well. Setting your rifle up for either size of these type of brakes will require a good gunsmith.

A good rifle butt pad can further reduce felt recoil up to 30% or so. I use a custom fit Pachmyer 1" thick Decel pad. The factory ones that come on most hunting rifles suck when it comes to getting that maximun felt recoil reduction.

Bedding the rifle is going to help alot as well. Again something you may want a good gunsmith to do.

I would also suggest that you have your reciever trued by a competent gunsmith.

A lighter trigger that has little to no creep or travel and breaks like glass IMO is a must. I use a Jewell trigger with just under 1-1/2 lbs. pull weight. For your rifle you will have to get a Timney trigger or equivilant as I dont believe that Jewell makes a trigger for the Browning.

For reaching out to 1000 yards and beyond a +20 moa picatinny rail mount will more than likely be required. Also a good set of solid scope rings such as the Badger Ordance offerings.

An adjustable cheek weld or cheek weld pad will also be a good idea to get that comfort required to make shots of repeatable accuracy.

I shoot as much as possible in prone position for the long shots using a Harris BRS model bipod. Shooting off a bipod is going to give you the most repeatable consistancy shot after shot.

Detachable magazine bottom metal is optional unless your going to get into practical precision competition which would make it necessary to even have a chance in a timed event.

Oh, also barrel heat is going to be an issue because as the barrel heats up after several rounds down the pipe the POI of the rifle is going to change up.
The larger diameter or "bull" barrels are made for this reason as heat has little to no effect on them. You'll have to let the barrel cool down after a few rounds with a factory barrel to keep from experienceing this.

Now for you... the shooter... the most improtant part of the equation. Can't recomend any books good or otherwise on techniques for long range shooting as I hooked up with a club and paid to go to long range shooting clinics and was mentored along by club member in techniques for this kind of shooting. Your definately going to need some knowledge for getting out there in the 1000 yard stuff.

One place I can tell you to look for good starter long range shooting technique information is on a forum called the Snipers Hide. They have quite an extensive series of instructional videos regarding long range precision shooting that have helped alot of folks get into this endevour.

Almost everything you said I said. lol

ah........thank you!

I kept trying to see an advantage (other than looks which are really fine) so mentioning hands helped. I have hands that almost fit in women's gloves so I can skip that gunsmith bill.

Nice guns.

Yeah I can barely grab a bolt with just my pinky finger without a mod like that. I need to get it done.

First I need to thank you and Chris (I know it's a game) for your help. I didn't ask before because I don't have a safe place to practice but this information is precious.

*******************
Laser bore sighter? Rentable or must be purchased or borrowed?


dialup & vids mix poorly but I have lots of time to study this for my own needs I never intended hunting but then I never intended this recession and a fixed income.

My original intention was to add a fine tool to my collection. The use was no more than the satisfaction in seeing some very far away explode into dust (pop never knew where those poker chips went) <s>

I don't need competition, I'm old but when I wasn't I had no competition to equal me so that's long since out of my system.

For now I just need to poke around some sites like the Sniper's Hide and see what my options are. For one thing my scope is insane for hunting unless the Oregon elk go to cloaking mode during the season.

Many questions but it's Summer and I hate heat so I have time for research.

Again gentlemen, my sincere thanks.:quickkiss::quickkiss:

Chris is my name Duke Nukem is a game. lol


Just buy a good bore sight, you can find good ones on amazon fairly cheap. Just don't get
on of the ones that you have to chamber.

I would recommend one like this Amazon.com: Bushnell Laser Boresighter: Sports & Outdoors

It come with different sized adapters to fit whatever size bore you have which is a big plus
because you can you it on multiple firearms.

Forgot the trigger:

I smithed the trigger springs on my Berettas but I'm guessing I won't be doing that to a rifle trigger?

Now heres what I really think and would recomend.

That Browning rifle is a real nice hunting rifle you have there and before I would consider "butchering" it up to make it function properly for a long range shooter I would look into a different rifle to start this journey with.

I would start with a rifle in .308 Winchester. I say this for several reasons.

Your going to need to get alot of practice and trigger time to become proficient at this and if your not into reloading it's going to cost you alot of $$$ buying ammunition for that .338 Win. Mag. Also, as far as I know, theres no factroy target ammunition made for this caliber. .308 Win. target ammunition is readily available most places in Federal, Black Hills, and several other brands at considerably less $$$ than 338 Win Mag hunting ammo. Reloading componets in this caliber are also more readily available and due to it's populairty less $$$ as well.

Havn't looked into it but I bet the barrel life with the .338 Win. Mag. will be short as well. Probably similar to the life of the 300 Win. Mag. I am currently shooting. Barrel life for .308 Win is pretty darn good at about 7500 rounds or so before you would want to replace the barrel.

Recoil with the .308 Win. is managable without using a muzzel brake. Also, muzzel brakes dramatically increase the muzzel blast noise which some don't like.

If you look around you'll usually find in a short time that theres quite a few good used 308 Win. target type rifles for the long range endevour already set up out there (usually less scope) for good prices. I seen them recently as low as + /- $2500.00 range which when you add up the costs of having an existing rifle done up is a good price.

Just my 2 cents here.

Shooting taught me about nature and gave me reasons to spend my days in the woods. Moving West added the colors and shapes of driftwood to my interests. I think I'm a wood nut but I can't wrap my head around synthetics. On the other hand at my age I'm going to have some trouble lugging this cannon 1000 yards & back at it's present weight.

Great minds think alike!:D Also I didn't read your reply:p

Glad to meet you Chris. I used to see your handle all over 4chan before I learned it was a game and there were probably a few people using the name.

This is perfect if you think it adequate. It does look like something one chambers though?

A gun part I can actually afford these days!:HIGHFIVE:

My friend the trauma surgeon has never seen my hands. It makes some of them giddy because they work in very tiny places with very sharp tools.

I looked at Music's paw attached to that arm he stole from Thor and hope he stays friendly or grows old & slow fast.:p We need a picture of Karras knocking out the horse.

Fiberglass stocks are pretty much what is used in this shooting style due to their stability in changing weather conditions and durability in the enviorment we shoot them in. Synthetic not necessary to use though.

This target rifle of mine weighs 17 lbs. 1 oz. exact with the scope. If you end up using your Browning here to build into a long range rifle the final weight of it will probably be near as much or possibly more than mine. I reccomend a biathalon sling for these weighty rifles if your hoofing it long distance.

I am using a Premier Reticles Heritage 5-25X56mm scope with a Gen 2 XR reticle.

Probably not and I don't recomend it. Also with the Jewell trigger going down to 1 lb. is safe with it, however, you probably will not be able to go as light in trigger pull weight with other brands of triggers and be safe. The Jewell design trigger is unique to other triggers out there and as far as I know they only make them for Remington 700's and Winchester Model 70's.

Check into paw reduction surgery.....:goink:

Look at the all the pictures for it. It is a bore side that fits in the end of your barrel. No cambering required.

I have a Jewell trigger on my 700. It's pretty sweet. I heard a bunch of complaints about from when they 1st came out but they have really improved on it and made it very safe and reliable.

at least 10 characters.

I use a Leupold 3-9x40 and my friend has a Nikon 4-12x50 I used once. Both are very nice scopes.

Spiffy!;)

yeah, you sunk my battleship but you didn't sink them all.......

.308 Win. gets to 1000 yards but just barely before or just at going subsonic in flight. Also, does lack severely at this range in ft. lbs. impact energy, however, still is good for target use.

I don't see how the scope could detract from rifles actual value come sell time but if the buyer doesn't want it take it off and keep the scope. I say a person can never have enough good glass.:D

Ulcers are in check for now but acid reflux flairs up from time to time. Pretty much the damage has been done to my gut. The Hypertension is my biggest concern but am able to keep it fairly close to being in safe range with meds and whatever I can get in relax time.


Now for the laser bore sighter and my thoughts.

I have one of these

SITELITE

which I use from time to time on my semi auto rifles like the M1A's. Works real good for these rifles with flash hiders or muzzel brakes as tang on sighter is extra long to get through brake or flash hider to actual barrel bore.

However, for bolt action rifles, I have and use a rifle vise and after leveling the scope while locked into the vise simple look down the bore of the rifle barrel with the bolt removed and line it up with a target about 25 or so feet away. Then I simply dial the elevation and windage into the scope until it lines up with the sight picture of the target down the barrel. Works good. All bore sighting does anyhow is get you close on paper and you have to finish dialing in your sights or scope the rest of the way to be dead on.

To be totally honest for the last few years I've used this bore sighter more to shine on the floor, walls, and furniture, moving the dot around for the cat to chase. Great fun and the cat doesn't seem to get tired with it. Just have to be careful not to shine in the cats eyes.

Plus can drop an elk.


I think separate sales is best. I have no use for the glass under 1000 yards but I still want to shoot it before selling it.

My mail contains a free deodorant sample from their "Adrenaline" series. I'm a junkie for the stuff and 70 hour weeks gives you a leg up in joining me.

It's a bodily RESERVE for emergencies, not a day to day fuel to run on. It's tough to give up too and may need rechanneling but in a massively downsized manner. It caught up to me at 50 so don't think it doesn't know your name. Just think about alternatives like delegation.

Now for the laser bore sighter and my thoughts.

I have one of these

SITELITE

which I use from time to time on my semi auto rifles like the M1A's. Works real good for these rifles with flash hiders or muzzel brakes as tang on sighter is extra long to get through brake or flash hider to actual barrel bore.

However, for bolt action rifles, I have and use a rifle vise and after leveling the scope while locked into the vise simple look down the bore of the rifle barrel with the bolt removed and line it up with a target about 25 or so feet away. Then I simply dial the elevation and windage into the scope until it lines up with the sight picture of the target down the barrel. Works good. All bore sighting does anyhow is get you close on paper and you have to finish dialing in your sights or scope the rest of the way to be dead on.

To be totally honest for the last few years I've used this bore sighter more to shine on the floor, walls, and furniture, moving the dot around for the cat to chase. Great fun and the cat doesn't seem to get tired with it. Just have to be careful not to shine in the cats eyes.[/QUOTE]


I bought my first laser 25 years ago to play with cats. Now I have 3 cheapo flashlights with lasers added. Just hoping Home Depot gets more back in stock because the white LEDs wear out.

I need to dig up some of the local gunnuts just to try out a boresight.

My two workbenches have side vices I can pad. I've used padded vice faces before and it worked well. Will that suffice as a gun vise?

I have all this except no health insurance so I can't get any of it in check.

Cause' I own my own business my insurance for me is not that good. Won't tolerate HMO have my own PPO. Deductable is high and really only good for serious hospitol time health issues.

Do myself the best by adoopting and embracing some holistic methods along with some script meds. Always have been on the lean side of body build but have changed up my diet over the last several years, quit smoking, and reduced alochol intake about a year ago. More natural unprocessed foods and natural methods of vitiman intake. Just a couple or so things that have helped.