Originally Posted by blucher
OMG! I shouldn't really be surprised but that's far lower than I'd have guessed.
A few years back when I had money coming in I saw a rifle I thought might be fun at 1000 yards.
two years later it's scoped and getting dusty. I'm still looking for a legal place to sight it in.
MRB, could you give me an honest idea of anything I might do to improve it?
Browning FN High-Power Safari Grade Cal. .338 Win. Mag.
Leupold 60335 4.5-14x50 VX-L Varmint Hunter's reticle Matte Scope
Heres a couple of pics. of my target rifle.
The main thing that you need to do when it comes to the long range game is make everything you do each time you shoot as exactly repeatable as possible form shot to shot. As far as the rifle goes, particularly of the 338 Win. Mag. caliber, is to first get the felt recoil reduced as much as possible.
A good timed thread on muzzel brake for this caliber is a must for long range repeatable accuracy. A proper timed muzzel brake should reduce felt recoil up to 50% or so. I use an Elite Iron brake. With the #9 contour Krieger Barrel on my target rifle I'm able to use a 5/8" X 24 TPI threaded brake. Most factory barrels will take a 9/16" threaded brake. I have a 9/16 timed brake on sporterized 03A3 which works quite well. Setting your rifle up for either size of these type of brakes will require a good gunsmith.
A good rifle butt pad can further reduce felt recoil up to 30% or so. I use a custom fit Pachmyer 1" thick Decel pad. The factory ones that come on most hunting rifles suck when it comes to getting that maximun felt recoil reduction.
Bedding the rifle is going to help alot as well. Again something you may want a good gunsmith to do.
I would also suggest that you have your reciever trued by a competent gunsmith.
A lighter trigger that has little to no creep or travel and breaks like glass IMO is a must. I use a Jewell trigger with just under 1-1/2 lbs. pull weight. For your rifle you will have to get a Timney trigger or equivilant as I dont believe that Jewell makes a trigger for the Browning.
For reaching out to 1000 yards and beyond a +20 moa picatinny rail mount will more than likely be required. Also a good set of solid scope rings such as the Badger Ordance offerings.
An adjustable cheek weld or cheek weld pad will also be a good idea to get that comfort required to make shots of repeatable accuracy.
I shoot as much as possible in prone position for the long shots using a Harris BRS model bipod. Shooting off a bipod is going to give you the most repeatable consistancy shot after shot.
Detachable magazine bottom metal is optional unless your going to get into practical precision competition which would make it necessary to even have a chance in a timed event.
Oh, also barrel heat is going to be an issue because as the barrel heats up after several rounds down the pipe the POI of the rifle is going to change up.
The larger diameter or "bull" barrels are made for this reason as heat has little to no effect on them. You'll have to let the barrel cool down after a few rounds with a factory barrel to keep from experienceing this.
Now for you... the shooter... the most improtant part of the equation. Can't recomend any books good or otherwise on techniques for long range shooting as I hooked up with a club and paid to go to long range shooting clinics and was mentored along by club member in techniques for this kind of shooting. Your definately going to need some knowledge for getting out there in the 1000 yard stuff.
One place I can tell you to look for good starter long range shooting technique information is on a forum called the Snipers Hide. They have quite an extensive series of instructional videos regarding long range precision shooting that have helped alot of folks get into this endevour.